Dr. Taylor's Walk through Nauck
Download Walkabout Map (515k PDF)
Description: the two options presented here are a shorter but more challenging 2.1 mile circuit, as described below, or the longer-but-easier 3.2 mile "retraced walk" that avoids the so-called Superman Hill. Allow about 45 minutes to an hour for either route.
Nauck, in case you aren't familiar with it, is a community of Arlington County rich in history. It isn't necessarily the easiest place to walk, with its hills and occasional narrow sidewalks, but it offers a lot to discover and enjoy. I hope you will come along with me on this tour of some of its more noteworthy establishments that form the pillars of this historically African American neighborhood.
BEGIN HERE: The Nauck Community Gateway at South Kenmore Street and Walter Reed Drive
If you come by this attractive corner anytime from late spring through late fall, you will find Nauck's "official" gateway resplendent with colorful annuals--a new design each season planted and maintained by the County's Department of Parks and Natural Resources. Although the Gateway is not the geographical northern boundary of the community, it is strategically placed at what could be called its most prominent entry.
2. Mount Zion Baptist Church, 3500 19th Street South
Sitting proudly at the corner of 19th and South Kenmore Streets, Mount Zion's roots can be traced back to the Civil War. Originally located not far down the road in Freedman's Village, the Old Bell Church as it was known is now occupying it's fourth residence, since construction of roads serving the Pentagon forced a move to its current location in 1944-45. Wonderfully, the Church has managed to preserve and protect the old bell for which it was originally named. Do take a minute to come inside and see it for yourself!
3. Macedonia Baptist Church, 3412 22nd Street South
Founded in 1908 in the home of Bonder and Amanda Johnson and formally established in 1911, Macedonia Baptist is the longest-standing black church in Nauck. Interim quarters in the Old Peyton Hall at Nauck Station (now a parking lot) held the growing congregation through the mid-1920's, when construction of a new building at that location was completed in 1927. The church's newest wing at the present site was completed in 1971. Macedonia is the church my family has attended for as long as we have lived in Nauck--which is now many, many years!
4. Veterans' Memorial YMCA, 3440 22nd Street South
This fifty year old Nauck institution is called the Veteran's Memorial in honor of a cadre of African-American troops from World War II who sought a place for recreation and social gathering. Driving by, you might not notice the only outdoor 25-meter swimming pool in Arlington--but on foot, you just may be able to sneak a peek! Since the 1990's, Veterans' Memorial has served the Nauck and South Arlington communities by providing child care, summer camp and aquatic programs; probably no one has grown up in Nauck without spending time at the Y.
5. Drew Model School and Community Center
Named in 1952 for Dr. Charles R. Drew, a local resident and eminent physician and Howard University professor whose research led to the development of the modern-day blood bank among many other achievements. Originally called the Kemper Annex, Drew became a community-wide "model school" in 1971. The original Art Moderne building was demolished in 2000 to make way for the present school building and community center, and in September of 2004, it will once again become a neighborhood school with optional enrollment from outside the community.
6. Trolley Turnaround and Martin Luther King Jr. Community Center Headquarters.
Here once stood the last stop on trolley line that ran from Green Valley (now Nauck!) to Rosslyn. Right at the intersection was a turntable on which the conductor pivoted the trolley to return to Rosslyn. As a boy, I used to love to watch him turn the big car around. I didn't know then that I would marry the girl who lived in the house that still stands there beside the site.
Across Shirlington Road is the MLK Jr. Community Center--a non-profit institution long housed in Nauck. Esteemed community member Mr. John Robinson serves as the Executive Director.
7. Green Valley Pharmacy, 2415 Shirlington Road
You can simply walk by the Green Valley Pharmacy, or better, you can stop inside and sample the delicious soul-satisfying counter fare. While you are there, say "hello" to "Doc" Leonard Muse, the first African American licensed pharmacist in Arlington County who first opened the legendary pharmacy over fifty years ago on this very site.
8. Lomax AME Zion Church, 2704 24th Road South
By now I hope you have noticed how spiritually well-endowed our community is! Lomax AMEZ (African Methodist Episcopal Zion) Church was founded in 1866, and originally located in Freedman's Village. The present Gothic Revival-style church was dedicated in 1927; the original building was de-constructed and re-assembled on the new site by congregation members. Wallace Boswell, whose $5 down payment secured the property, is buried under the church steps. The church invites you come inside and have a look at the lovely commemorative quilt that depicts church history.
9. Dunbar Mutual Homes Association
On this site in 1949, Dunbar Mutual Homes Association, a low-cost housing cooperative founded by a group of African-American veterans and their families, constructed the 86 households you see here today. The concept was to provide affordable housing to people locked out of the local real estate market because of their race. Because the Dunbar Mutual Homes Association could not obtain funds from local banks, James A. Hewitt, a white real estate broker in Washington, DC helped the Dunbar Association secure money from a New York bank. He also lent Dunbar the money for closing. The initial cost was $264,000.
10. W & OD Trailhead
Nauck's gateway to the extensive trail system that follows the path of an old railway deserves your exploration--some other time! It is also the link to another Walkabout on the WALKArlington Site -- Sharon Percy Rockefeller's walk through Shirlington.
11. Weenie Beanie
Who has ever passed through Shirlington or Nauck at lunchtime that has not noticed the hungry droves lining up for burgers, fries, and an assortment of other home-cooked edibles cooked the "Weenie Beanie" way.
12. Jennie Dean Park
This well-used parkland is named for former slave Jennie Dean whose perseverance and vision led her to found a school for African-Americans in Manassas, Virginia. The land itself was once owned by the Peyton family and is the former site of Peyton's Hall, a social gathering spot for the community in years past. The park is now home to two baseball fields, a school-age playground, and lighted basketball and tennis courts. At one time there was also a swimming pool and, believe it or not, a motorcycle racing track.
13. Arlington County Parks and Recreation Facilities, 3700 South Four Mile Run Drive
A few years back, the County moved some of Department of Parks and Natural Resources staff into what once was WETA administrative and studio space here on Four Mile Run. The Sports Division is now located here, as is Cultural Affairs, which added to their inventory of "incubator" theatre spaces with the delightfully cozy black-box Theatre on the Run (as in Four Mile Run). Stop by and pick up a schedule!
14. Signature Theatre, 3806 South Four Mile Run Drive
Speaking of theatres, nobody does Stephen Sondheim -- among others--better than Signature Theatre, an 136 seat black-box theatre in a converted bumper-plating facility that has always called South Arlington "home." Nationally known for its productions of such musicals as "Sweeny Todd" and "Passion," Signature has received over 35 Helen Hayes awards (the DC area's equivalent of the Tonys) at this writing. The theatre is slated to relocate to the Village at Shirlington a few blocks away in 2007.
15. "Superman Hill"
Some may call it Walter Reed Drive, but virtually anyone who has grown up in Nauck knows it as Superman Hill--and it's the climb you will remember when your Walkabout is done! But it's worth it: at the top you will be rewarded by a shady rest stop known as...
6. Fort Barnard Park
Arlington, with its proximity to the nation's capitol, was a supremely important location for Civil War fortifications. Between 1881 and 1865, 22 forts and other encampments were located here, including Fort Barnard, a redoubt constructed late in 1861 to command the approaches to Alexandria by way of Four Mile Run and Glebe Road. Named for General J. G. Barnard, Chief Engineer of the Defenses of Washington, it had a perimeter of 250 yards and emplacements for 20 guns. Currently home to baseball, softball and multi-use fields, basketball court and playground, here you will also find a water fountain. Enjoy!
17. Dog Exercise Area and Walter Reed Community Garden
Glance across S. Walter Reed Drive to the County facilities there--namely a dog park, where you may want to stop if you have Spot in tow, and the prized community gardens where many green-thumbed South Arlingtonians tend to their tomatoes and other produce--in season, that is.
END: Nauck Gateway
Just a bit farther uphill you will find yourself back at the starting point of this tour. I hope you got a good workout, and a good education about some of the highlights of our community.
Unfortunately, this walk through Nauck only just barely opened our historical treasure chest. I did not get to walk you past Our Lady Queen of Peace Catholic Church for example--another Nauck institution and source of great community pride. Nor did I show you the house that Roberta Flack grew up in, or the site of the home of Levi Jones, the free black man who first settled in Nauck back in 1844.
A lovely guide to African American history in Arlington has been assembled in a publication you can get from Arlington Economic
Development entitled "African American History in Arlington, Virginia: A Guide to the Historic Sites of a Long and Proud Heritage." You can get a copy by calling 703.228.0888. The Virginia Room at Arlington Central Library is also a tremendous resource--I urge anyone with an interest in local history to pay them a visit.
***
Dr. Alfred O. Taylor, Jr., EdD, retired Acting Dean of the College of Professional Studies at the University of the District of Columbia, walks for exercise "as much as possible." Finding Nauck's geography a sometimes challenge, Dr. Taylor has other tactics to keep him walking -- like parking at ends of parking lots, walking on golf courses and taking the stairs instead of elevators whenever possible.
Dr. Taylor lived in Nauck (then Green Valley) from his birth in 1934 until 1952 when he moved into the District. He remained very active in church and civic activities in Arlington, however, and relocated here in 1990 on property formerly owned by his parents. Keeping an appointment schedule that only the most fervently active would envy, Dr. Taylor is the current President of the Nauck Civic Association and sits on a number of executive boards and advisory groups including the Arlington Career Center, the Arlington Heritage Museum Task Force, the Shirlington Road Revitalization Advisory Committee, the Alliance for Housing Solutions, Arlington County Police Chief's Advisory Council, Northern Virginia Health Systems Agency, the Bonder and Amanda Johnson Community Development Corporation and the Deacon's Ministry of the Macedonia Baptist Church. To top it off, he is also a substitute teacher, Arlington County Public Schools.
